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    <loc>https://www.matthewdbprice.com/blog</loc>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.matthewdbprice.com/blog/getting-the-best-out-of-film</loc>
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    <lastmod>2021-03-25</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Blog - Getting the Best Out of Film - Stay True to the Box Speed</image:title>
      <image:caption>Once your film is loaded, you can’t do much to change the ASA. Of course, you could push or pull the film (shooting at a higher or lower ASA than the box speed for creative effect), but as the roll will be developed in the same chemicals for the same amount of time changing the ASA between shots will lead to under and over exposed shots. Therefore it is imperative that you finish the roll under the same (or similar) conditions as you started.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603a9cd1543f684c561898dd/1615818152427-DOBEZ1BZO9POXC5BV7CP/unsplash-image-K1eZHFrUfiE.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Getting the Best Out of Film - Choosing Your Film</image:title>
      <image:caption>Perhaps the most important choice you should make is choosing your emulsion - of which there are many, but which generally fall into two categories: black and white or colour. There are other options as well, such as creative films or slide film, but film photographers usually choose between these two to begin with. As well as the “look” of the film, you will also need to choose the film speed (also known as ASA) of which you will be shooting with. Unlike modern digital cameras, film cameras’ ISO cannot be changed halfway through a roll and so it is important to know what sort of lightning conditions you will be shooting in. The most common are 100 - 400 ASA film, which will allow you a considerable amount of light when shooting. Anything higher (800, 1600 etc) will be a lot more susceptible to light and are generally accepted to low light films.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Getting the Best Out of Film - Scan and Edit</image:title>
      <image:caption>Perhaps one of the greatest advantages we, as film photographers, have in 2021 is the possibility to scan and edit our images directly from the negatives. Yes, you can invest in a darkroom so that you can print your own images, but whereas these days printing and scanning devices have come such a long way, I generally prefer to store my film digitally. That said, I do have an archive-binder I keep the original acetate in as well! Once I’ve carefully scanned the negatives while wearing archival gloves (finger prints and dust are now your worst enemy) I will edit the images to adjust contrast and exposure with Silverfast, and then Photoshop and Lightroom, before saving the images to an external hard-drive as TIFF files.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - Getting the Best Out of Film - Develop your Images and Leave Them Dry</image:title>
      <image:caption>Other than actually taking the photographs, for me the most enjoyable part of the process is the developing. If shooting black and white film, it is during this stage that you have more creative control over the look and feel of your images. By experimenting with different developers you can alter the contrast, grain and luminosity of your images. If developing yourself, be sure to follow the instructions carefully and use a darkroom or dark-bag to load your film into the developing tank. Any light will destroy your images. Once you have developed the images, hang them to dry in a dust-free room for approximately 40 minutes to an hour, though any longer is always better.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - Getting the Best Out of Film - Use the Correct Settings</image:title>
      <image:caption>Once you have loaded the film into your camera (this ought to be done in subdued lighting, but if you find yourself loading in the field try to load your film in the shade), be sure that you adjust the ASA so that the light meter exposes correctly. If your camera does not have a light meter built-in, then either use a handheld meter or refer to the Sunny-16 rule when shooting. If you are using a handheld device, point it at a 45º angle to your subject, as this will allow it to see the reflective light from the ground as well as the light on your subject.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - Getting the Best Out of Film - Share and Enjoy Your Photographs</image:title>
      <image:caption>It’s only taken about a week, but you’ve finally finished your roll, developed your images and fixed them (if they need fixing!) in post. Now, with your images carefully stored on your computer you can print them at home, have them printed professionally, share them online - whatever you want do! Personally, I like to print my photographs so that I can stand back and appreciate (or critique) them, before sharing my work with friends and family.</image:caption>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.matthewdbprice.com/blog/how-to-take-great-snaps-with-your-smartphone</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-03-18</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Compose The Shot</image:title>
      <image:caption>If I’m shooting a landscape, of course I will want to get as much of the scene in frame as possible, but I am also an avid believer in the rules of composition, such as the Rule of Thirds, leading lines and leaving negative space. With this shot, I have a curved leading line of the road which provides a nice horizon point and shape to the image. By lining the trees to the right of the image, I have also incorporated the Golden Ratio (or Fibonacci Spiral) into the shot. This, in essence, draws the view's eye from the negative space of the sky down to the horizon below the mountain, and then sweeps across the road to the trees.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/603a9cd1543f684c561898dd/1615810318873-L3723LHAFT5XY6HU20UW/vsco.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Mount Your Photos with VSCO</image:title>
      <image:caption>Another app I use frequently, especially when preparing my images for social media, is VSCO. The app features a variety of presets based on film stocks, and, although can be used to generate "retro" looking images can also be helpful when you want to keep a portrait or landscape photograph in a square format - which is the main reason I use it. Here, I've simply mounted the image in a white square ready to be posted to Instagram.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Post to Social Media</image:title>
      <image:caption>And last, but not least, I will post my image to Instagram, Facebook and perhaps even my online portfolio!</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Play With Focal Lengths or Portrait Mode</image:title>
      <image:caption>Depending on what I am shooting, I will always play with the different focal lengths on the camera, or even use Portrait Mode if I want the illusion of a shallow depth of field.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Retouch the Images</image:title>
      <image:caption>Perhaps one of the greatest advantages of shooting on mobile as opposed to on a standalone camera, are the apps available to photographers today. Once I have taken the shots, I will go through them and select those I feel could use some enhancing. Of course, not every situation or job calls for editing, but when I’m shooting for fun or for my own portfolio I will generally use the following apps to help make my photos shine:</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Use Third-Party Accessories</image:title>
      <image:caption>Sometimes I feel as though the standard focal lengths and aspect ratios on the phone do not allow me to get the image I want, and so I turn to the third-party lenses I have in my arsenal. I primarily use Moment lenses, which are easily and securely mounted to the phone via a case. The US company produce a number of different lenses and mounts for smartphones, but I often resort to their 14mm fisheye lens that makes for some very interesting compositions, or an anamorphic cinematic lens for wide, sweeping panoramas such as the example above. Likewise, for particularly difficult shots - such as when shooting at night, taking a self portrait or if taking video, I use a handheld gimbal, such as the DJI Osmo Mobile, to steady the phone.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Adjust Focus and Exposure</image:title>
      <image:caption>Something I am sure not any people are aware of is that exposure can be finely adjusted in the stock camera app. Once I have composed the shot, I tap on the brightest area of the image and raise or lower my finger, thus raising and lowering the exposure. If I want to maintain a particular spot for focus, tap and hold on the screen. A window will appear at the top of the screen letting you know that Auto Exposure and Auto Focus has been locked. You can then move the phone as you please, keeping the object you selected in focus and correctly metered.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Shoot in ProRaw</image:title>
      <image:caption>Before I even start composing a shot, I always ensure that ProRaw is enabled, as this will allow me to edit my photographs easier, later. To enable ProRaw, dive into Settings &gt; Camera &gt; Formatsand make sure Apple ProRawis toggled on. Then, inside the Camera app make sure the Raw button in the upper right of the screen is not crossed out.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Add Some Flare with Lens Distortion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is very dependant on the type of image taken, and I usually use this app when photographing architecture, product or food shots. Lens Distortions gives you the option to add lens flares or lighting effects into your image, and can help draw the viewer to a certain part of the photograph. In this case I have added a very slight light leak to the left of the image, giving the impression of the sun shining into the image. It is important to be subtle when adding flares or lighting - and to make sure they work with any shadows you may have in your image.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
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      <image:title>Blog - How To Take Great Snaps with Your Smartphone - Adjust Settings in Lightroom Mobile</image:title>
      <image:caption>I begin by loading all the images I have selected into Lightroom Mobile. Once they are synced with Adobe’s Creative Cloud, I will delete them from my phone as Apple ProRaw images take up quite a bit of space! I start with working through some presetsI have created, finding one that works best with the image selected.</image:caption>
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    <loc>https://www.matthewdbprice.com/blog/taking-photos-in-the-snow</loc>
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    <lastmod>2021-03-16</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Blog - Taking Photos in the Snow</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.matthewdbprice.com/ski-floralie</loc>
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    <lastmod>2021-03-21</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Ski Floralie - Alpine Walk.jpg</image:title>
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      <image:title>About Me - Hello, my name is Matthew Price and I have been photographing and designing things for over 7 years. I graduated from Coventry University's School of Art and Design with a degree in Transport Design, and have since been working as a graphic designer and photographer in the luxury travel market. Whereas for my clients I will shoot on digital cameras, my real passion lies with film, with which I shoot a variety of vintage cameras. If you are interested in hiring me, or simply reaching out, give me a shout - it will always be a pleasure to hear from you!</image:title>
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